Underwear Tech Pack Template: The Six Sections a Factory Can Quote From
A complete underwear tech pack has six sections — programme summary, construction detail, fabric and trims with measured targets, a grading grid with tolerances, labelling and packaging, and dated approval checkpoints — and the fields that decide the price are fabric weight in gsm, stretch and recovery, waistband finished height, seam type and stitches per inch. On a custom OEM programme the pack’s job is to remove one sampling round, not to describe the product.
Where can I download the template?
Download the PDF (unitex-underwear-tech-pack-template.pdf) — free, no registration required.
What is inside the template?
- Programme summary — market, price point, quantity, in-warehouse date, Incoterms
- Construction sheet — rise, waistband type and height, seam type and SPI, gusset, fly, pouch
- Fabric and trims table — composition, weight in gsm, stretch and recovery, colour references
- Size grading grid — waist relaxed and stretched, hip, inseam, front rise, leg opening
- Labelling and packaging — care label wording, fibre declaration, carton assortment, certification evidence
- Approval checkpoints — lab dip, fit sample, pre-production sample, bulk, pre-shipment inspection
What comes back, and when?
A costed quotation and a dated production plan, normally within three working days, with every field you left open listed back to you, a proposed value beside it and the reason for that value.
What has to be filled in for each of the six sections?
The template is only as useful as the fields you actually complete. This is the field list per section, and what breaks downstream when a field is left blank or left to the supplier to guess.
| Section | Fields that must be filled in | What breaks without it |
|---|---|---|
| Programme summary | Destination market, retail price point, total quantity, size curve, in-warehouse date, Incoterm and named place | The factory quotes against the wrong fabric weight or the wrong packing cost |
| Construction sheet | Rise, waistband type and finished height, seam type and stitches per inch, gusset construction, fly type, pouch shape, hem treatment | Every one of these changes the labour minutes, so the quote is a guess |
| Fabric and trims | Composition with percentages, weight in gsm, knit structure, stretch and recovery target, colour reference, elastic spec with width and elongation | Two mills interpret “cotton spandex jersey” as two different fabrics |
| Size grading grid | Every measurement point with the base size value and the grade increment per size, in centimetres, plus the tolerance band | Pattern making restarts, and the grading is redone at the buyer’s risk |
| Labelling and packaging | Care label wording and symbols, fibre declaration, country of origin marking, polybag and carton assortment, carton marks | Goods pass inspection and fail at the destination border on marking |
| Approval checkpoints | Lab dip, fit sample, pre-production sample, bulk first article, pre-shipment inspection, each with a date and an owner | Nobody knows who signs off, so nothing is signed off |
Which measurements belong on the size sheet, and how is each taken?
A measurement list is not a size sheet. What makes it one is the method written beside each point, because half of all sampling rounds are caused by two parties measuring the same garment in two defensible ways.
| Measurement point | How it is taken | The ambiguity that costs a sampling round |
|---|---|---|
| Waist, relaxed | Garment flat, no tension, measured across the top of the waistband, doubled | Measured at the seam instead of the band edge, or measured on a curved band |
| Waist, stretched | Band extended to its practical maximum and held, then measured and doubled | No stated extension force, so the figure is not repeatable |
| Front rise | From the top of the waistband to the crotch seam, along the front panel | Measured to the gusset seam rather than the crotch point |
| Back rise | Same path on the back panel, from band top to crotch seam | Measured as a straight vertical rather than following the curve |
| Hip | Across the widest point, at a stated distance below the waistband | The distance below the band is not stated, so the point moves between sizes |
| Leg opening | Inner edge to inner edge of the finished opening, laid flat | Measured on the curve rather than the straight chord |
| Inseam | Crotch seam to hem, along the inner leg | Measured from the gusset edge on styles that have one |
| Side seam | Waistband top to hem along the side | Meaningless on seamless circular-knit styles, where there is no side seam to measure |
| Gusset width | Finished width of the gusset panel, measured across its narrowest point | Measured at the seam allowance rather than the finished edge |
| Elastic height | Finished height of the waistband, measured after laundering | Measured before wash, when the band has not yet relaxed |
State the tolerance for each point rather than one figure for the whole sheet. Commercial conventions in the cluster run to roughly one centimetre on body measures and half a centimetre on elastic edges, with fabric weight held to about five percent — those figures are trade practice, not a published standard, so the sheet should carry whichever band you want enforced.
Which tests should be named in the pack?
Naming the test method in the tech pack does two things at once: it tells the factory what to test, and it tells the laboratory what to report. A pack that says “colour fastness” gets a report nobody can act on.
| Property | Method to name | What the result decides |
|---|---|---|
| Dimensional change after washing | ISO 6330, with the wash and dry cycle stated | Whether the grading has to be offset, and whether the garment still fits after five washes |
| Colour fastness to domestic laundering | ISO 105-C06 | Whether a dark shade can ship with a pale one in the same pack |
| Colour fastness to perspiration | ISO 105-E04 | The risk that matters most on waistbands and gussets worn against skin |
| Stretch and recovery | ASTM D2594 for low-power knitted fabrics | Whether the band sags after wear, which is the most common consumer complaint |
| Mass per unit area | ASTM D3776 | The weight in gsm that the price was quoted against |
| Care labelling | ISO 3758 symbols, with the wording fixed in the pack | Whether the label matches the tested performance |
| Flammability, US-bound | 16 CFR 1610 on the shell fabric, with fibre content and surface stated | Whether the fabric is exempt, and if not whether it passes as Class 1 |
| Inspection | ISO 2859-1, inspection level and AQL stated | Whether “passed inspection” means anything specific |
16 CFR 1610 is a fabric test that returns a class, not a licence to sell, and it carries exemptions that decide whether you need to test at all. Hats, gloves, footwear and interlining are outside its scope, and under 1610.1(d)(2) fabrics made entirely of acrylic, modacrylic, nylon, olefin, polyester or wool are exempt at any weight and whether the surface is plain or raised. Cotton, and any blend that is not wholly one of those fibres, has to be tested; a raised surface on cotton does not remove the obligation. Class 1 is the normal outcome for an underwear knit, and a failure changes the fabric, not the style.
Which eight fields cause most second sampling rounds?
Across the programmes we run, a re-sample almost always traces back to one of these eight fields being blank, contradicted elsewhere in the pack, or left to the supplier’s default.
- Fabric weight in gsm, with the tolerance — “medium weight jersey” is not a specification.
- Stretch and recovery target, measured rather than described.
- Waistband finished height and elongation, because wide bands change the rise.
- The base size the grading starts from, and the increment per size.
- Shrinkage allowance, stated as a number after a named wash cycle.
- Seam type and stitches per inch, which set both durability and labour cost.
- Colour reference tied to a physical standard — a lab dip number, not a screen colour.
- Care label wording, which has to be consistent with the tests actually run.
What does the tech pack not replace?
Three things, and buyers who expect the pack to cover them are usually the ones who re-sample.
- A lab dip. A colour reference starts a conversation; only a dyed sample ends it. Approve the dip before the fit sample is cut, or the fit sample is cut in the wrong colour and the comments get mixed.
- A fit session on a body or a form. Measurements describe a garment; they do not tell you where it rides. One fit session on the base size catches what a grading grid cannot.
- A pre-production sample. The pack specifies, the PPS proves. Nothing in the document removes the need to see the first garment made on the production line with the production fabric.
How do you use the template with us?
Fill in the six sections; where a field is genuinely open, write “recommend” next to it and we will propose a value with the reason. Send it with a sketch or a reference garment. If you want the measurement sheet pre-filled with the points that apply to your custom construction — brief, boxer brief, boxer short, high-waist or seamless — ask for that version instead of starting from the blank grid, and read the cost and order-size breakdown alongside it so the quantity you specify matches the price you expect.
A tech pack is also the cheapest test of a supplier’s document discipline: a supplier who returns your sheet with the gaps marked is reading it, and one who returns a quote without comment is quoting from habit. That distinction is the same one behind our five checks before a first order.
References
The standards named in the pack, at the publisher.
- ISO 6330, Domestic washing and drying procedures for textile testing — iso.org
- ISO 3758, Care labelling code using symbols — iso.org
- ISO 2859-1, Sampling procedures for inspection by attributes — iso.org
- 16 CFR 1610, Standard for the flammability of clothing textiles — ecfr.gov
- Regulation (EU) 1007/2011, textile fibre names and labelling — eur-lex.europa.eu
Related reading
Underwear MOQ & cost breakdown · Production timeline & lead times · Quality control process · Writing a tech pack: best practices and common mistakes · Request a quotation
Contact
Xiamen Unitex Trade Co., Ltd. — OEM & ODM underwear sourcing and supply-chain management.
Website: www.unitexunderwear.com · E-mail: [email protected] · Tel: 0086-186 5081 3853
· Xiamen Unitex Trade Co., Ltd. — OEM & ODM underwear sourcing partner
| Supplier | Unitex Underwear (Xiamen Unitex Trade Co., Ltd.) — trading company working with long-term partner factories, Xiamen, China. |
|---|---|
| Sections in a complete pack | Six: programme summary, construction, fabric and trims, grading grid, labelling and packaging, approval checkpoints |
| Fabric specification fields | Composition with percentages, weight in gsm, knit structure, stretch and recovery target, colour reference |
| Construction fields | Rise, waistband type and finished height, seam type and stitches per inch, gusset, fly, pouch, hem |
| Grading grid | Every measurement point, base size value, increment per size, tolerance band |
| Measurement points, core | Waist relaxed, waist stretched, front rise, back rise, hip, leg opening, gusset width, elastic height |
| Tolerance convention | About 1.0 cm on body measures, 0.5 cm on elastic edges, 5 percent on fabric weight, trade practice |
| Shrinkage test | ISO 6330, with the wash and dry cycle stated |
| Colour fastness, laundering | ISO 105-C06 |
| Colour fastness, perspiration | ISO 105-E04 |
| Stretch and recovery | ASTM D2594 for low-power knitted fabrics |
| Mass per unit area | ASTM D3776 |
| Care labelling | ISO 3758 symbols, wording fixed in the pack |
| Flammability, US-bound | 16 CFR 1610, with fabric construction stated |
| Inspection | ISO 2859-1, inspection level and AQL stated |
| Fibre labelling, EU | Regulation (EU) 1007/2011 |
| Approval checkpoints | Lab dip, fit sample, pre-production sample, bulk first article, pre-shipment inspection |
| Quotation turnaround after a complete pack | Normally three working days |
Buyer checklist
- Fill all six sections before sending the sheet, and write recommend next to any field you are leaving open.
- State fabric weight in gsm with a tolerance, not a description such as medium weight.
- Give stretch and recovery as measured targets with the test method.
- State waistband finished height and elongation, and check that the rise still works with a wider band.
- Name the base size and the increment per size for every measurement point.
- Write the shrinkage allowance as a number after a named ISO 6330 wash cycle.
- State seam type and stitches per inch, since they set both durability and labour cost.
- Attach a physical colour reference or lab dip number, never a screen colour.
- Fix the care label wording so it matches the tests actually run.
- Mark which measurement points do not apply to the construction, for example side seam on a seamless style.
Unitex Underwear (Xiamen Unitex Trade Co., Ltd.)
Unitex Underwear (Xiamen Unitex Trade Co., Ltd.) — OEM/ODM underwear sourcing and supply-chain partner in Xiamen, China; in the trade since 2009, incorporated in 2013. Based in the Xiamen–Quanzhou–Jinjiang knitwear cluster, Fujian Province, south-east China.
