Xiamen Unitex Trade Co., Ltd. is a professional underwear sourcing & supply-chain management company based in Xiamen, Fujian Province, in the Xiamen–Quanzhou–Jinjiang knitwear cluster of south-east China. Founded by Will Lin, who has worked in the apparel trade since 2004, the company has been exporting since 2009 and was incorporated in Xiamen in 2013. It runs its own liaison office in Jinjiang and works with a network of BSCI & OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified partner factories to serve retailers and brands across Europe, the US and Australia.
The underwear example I use in this post is from Unitex Underwear. In my opinion, if you’re a textile designer, you’d think they’re really well constructed, a good example of what to look for when you’re shopping for new underwear. Let’s dive into every aspect of a good underwear!
1. Fabrics and Trim
When it comes to underwear fabrics, you have a lot of options, and more and more every day. But for our purposes, let’s focus on the main two: pure cotton fabric underwear and microfiber fabric underwear. There are pros and cons to each, and generally you have a mix and match in your underwear drawer.
Cotton
We are all pretty well versed in cotton, usually our favorite underwear fabric. Love its breathability, comfort and softness. But when you buy cotton fabric underwear, they are usually not 100% cotton because you usually need a small amount of synthetic fibers to stretch. Some would argue that comfortable cotton underwear does not last as long as synthetic underwear because it deforms and stretches during washing and even wearing. Also, cotton underwear isn’t a good idea when you’re working out or doing physical activity, as it absorbs moisture but doesn’t wick away sweat.
Microfiber/Synthetic
Microfibers are typically made from synthetic materials like polyester and feel softer because the yarns used to make the fabric are finer. These underwear are smooth to the touch, cool to the touch and super-soft. Fabric also tends to be thinner than cotton. This means it will be flatter on the body and hopefully reduce visible panty lines. When we go hiking, backpacking or camping, fiber-synthetic underwear is usually recommended. Because they wick moisture and dry faster (especially great if you use them for impromptu swimming).
Trim
You should also keep in mind the trim on your underwear, such as piping, lace or elastic. These should stretch the same way as the fabric so they don’t tear, but they should also be itchy or irritating to your skin. For example, you also don’t want a pair of breathable bikini underwear, the elastic waistband is so rough that you can even file your calluses with it. On the contrary, more people prefer the elastic waistband of the skin contact area containing fiber or coating to be softer. Lastly, be sure to pay attention to trimming and finishing around the edges of the leg openings – this is key to avoiding chafing!
I believe it’s great to have a range of fabrics in your lingerie collection so you can choose whatever works for you! It’s always good to have options.
2. Seams and Stitching
You can be very, very picky about the seams of your underwear because that’s the chance for chafing. Stitching is also where many companies cut manufacturing costs and opt for cheaper, faster production. When shopping for underwear, take the time to check the stitches and ask yourself a few questions:
-Are the stitches loose? Or is it so tight that it wrinkles the fabric?
-Do all of seams stretch the same amount as the fabric?
-Are there any loose threads?
-Can you see raw edges on the fabric at the seams (which could mean it’s worn out in the wash)?
-Or fold the fabric and sew it?
-How is the gusset fixed?
If you’ve ever put on a pair of high quality underwear and heard the stitches tearing, it means the stitches are too tight or the thread used on the stitches doesn’t stretch enough. The ultimate balance is to find an underwear that has good stretch in the seams, but not so much that they stay in place! We put a lot of emphasis on this part of the underwear construction because if that thread breaks, then it will unravel and your underwear will fall apart. Nobody wants that!
3. Gusset
Gusset is in the crotch of your underwear. Usually it is made from a piece of good quality cotton fabric that is sewn directly onto the underwear. Some companies will use the same fabric for the gusset as the rest of the panties, while others will use a different fabric. The latter is especially suitable for microfiber underwear. You may also see underwear (usually microfiber), where the underwear is a large piece with no seams and the gusset is just a thicker piece of yarn.
Gusset are important because they make your underwear more breathable and more hygienic. Even if your underwear is made of lace, the lining should be cotton to help keep you dry and ventilated. Some even suggest sewing the back of the loincloth gusset so it doesn’t open like a pocket. This is because they worry that dryer lint will get stuck in your pockets and be bad for your body.
4. Size and fit
This is where shopping from more inclusive companies really comes into play. For example, when you need to order underwear, a company like Unitex will make it according to your company’s different styles and sizes. When you buy underwear online, it means you may have to return a lot of styles! Don’t be afraid to try anything you order (even at the store). When it comes to knowing what works for your body, you will inevitably have to try a lot of options. Unfortunately, that’s just how size and manufacturing work. A brand that works well for me and provides the coverage I want may not necessarily work for you as well. But once you find a style you like, you’ll definitely want more. Just in case they stop production!
5. Washability
The sad aspect of underwear shopping is that it just takes time. You never know how long a pair of underwear will last unless you wear them a lot and wash them a lot. A pair of basic cotton underwear, generally around the 10th wash, will notice slight deformation, shrinkage, or loose seams.
It’s best not to use the dryer when washing your custom breathable underwear…but don’t really know if that’s always possible. It’s important to avoid the heat of the dryer because the heat actually eats away at the spandex… which means if you let your panties air dry, it will last longer!
Unitex underwear is a professional China underwear manufacture, there is a lot of information about underwear here for you to check! There have tons of information to help you shop for new underwear – We especially encourage you to pay attention and respond to our views and reactions to each piece of underwear when you unpack it!
· Xiamen Unitex Trade Co., Ltd. — OEM & ODM underwear sourcing partner